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Deep-frozen? The cozy Fireplace Room is winter's hot ticket.. The Scene
Getting swept up in a fashionable undertow in the food business is easy: One minute you're eating sea urchin roe, the next you're waiting in line at that new little fusion joint that features greenery you've never heard of, let alone considered eating. The Inn at Turner's Mill takes the opposite approach. Hearty American food is prepared to order here, presented in a setting as smartly turned out as a troop of Civil War cavalry.

The Setting
Located in horse- and country-house territory, the Inn inhabits an 1852 steam mill nestled in the small slice of transplanted New England known as Hudson. The dining room plays host to a cast of regulars who come to be dazzled by the setting and the sauces. Fight for your favorite table: The cozy Fireplace Room is the hot winter ticket, with the Porch Room the seat of choice in the season of summer breezes.

The Selection
The kitchen features a rotating selection of seasonal American cuisine. The smoked salmon and dill crepe appetizer and the veal chop/crabmeat entree are both well worth their price tags; iIf you're splurging, have the kitchen prepare a four-course tasting menu with a suitable wine selection. While the attached E.B. Ellsworth Tavern is a great place to sip, keep your dining within Turner's Mill. Then stick around for some moonrise jazz accompaniment, or stroll the square of this quaint little town. And relax; the stagecoaches here run late.…